The Barrel. This is the term given to the inner part of a tube that is formed when a wave breaks. There is something special about this moment in place and time. A harmony. A balance between peace and chaos. At the centre of this vortex you feel at one with all of creation.
If you have ever studied Sacred Geometry you know that all of life's forms are created using the geometry of God or The Universe. The essence of this in mathematical terms is the fibonacci spiral as it moves towards the golden ratio "Phi". The centre of a wave is the central vortex of this energy. A wave is a physical manifestation that lets you see this normally invisible energy with your own eyes, and in some cases experience it with your whole body.
Yes we all know that waves are created by wind over water, blah, blah, blah. We also know that stars are giant nuclear furnaces. But someone or something had to light the match.
The fact is all energy, all life, moves along the form and shape of this so called "sacred geometry".
Normally this energy is constantly moving all around us and through us. But when you ride a wave and are inside the barrel, the tube, you are for a brief moment moving in harmony with this energy. You are, for that brief moment, moving with the epicenter of this energy. The feeling is one of indescribable elation. This feeling is called "The Stoke".
It is most powerfully felt inside the barrel but you can also feel it just playing in the waves, body surfing, flirting with the waves, anything that helps you to move for a brief moment in line with this divine flow.
At least that is what it feels like to me for it can be argued that everything is in a "divine flow"... The simple truth is its fun and it makes you smile.
The wind also moves in these spirals and shapes and forms, the only difference is you cannot see it. A wave lets you see this energy. Sailing, riding in harmony with this flow, also induces a form of "The Stoke".
I hope to talk more of the stoke in future blog posts but those that know the feeling will know exactly what I am talking about. And those that do not, I hope you one day get to experience the feeling for yourself. Whether sailing, surfing, kiteboarding, windsurfing or anything else that helps you to feel this experience for yourself, these feelings are not that different. For these sports are not in competition with one another. They are merely unique perspectives, different ways to experience the same reality.
This wave in particular is from Skeleton Bay off the coast of Namibia, Africa.The barrel it produces is more than a mile long. Read more about it HERE.
The song in the video is Lucid Truth by Blackmill. Kind of fitting don't you think?
One last thing...
A quote I have always liked...