When I see this I hear Morgan Freeman's voice saying, "Some bird's aren't meant to be caged" and I think - some waves ARE meant to be ridden ... like a gift from GOD left under the tree of your soul ... waiting for you to wake up on Christmas morning, tear the wrapping off, wax your board and jump right in.
OK I know I'm mixing in way too many references but my mind is scrambled after seeing this video ... I mean holy shit did you see that wave?
I used to dream of riding Banzai Pipeline but let's face it ... not only is that the most territorial wave on the planet ... but the amount of training and surfing you have to do to be good enough to ride there is off the charts and sadly was probably not meant for a guy who grew up in the surfing mecca known as Toronto. But this wave, this looks totally rideable ... and oh what a ride it looks to be. Ive never see anything like it.
Make room on the bucket list for this one.
Oh and that song: dream haunting or what?
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And how cool is this ... the reverse angle!! Awesome!!
I love the look of gratitude in this guy's face ... i think he knows he scored something special ... and the story of the hurdles he encountered to get there ... well its analogous to life and the journey we take in general ... so cool to see it all work out ... anyways this next one is like "the Making Of Video:
$3,000 for a 20 sec barrel ... im sure he is thinking "totally worth it!"
The Barrel. This is the term given to the inner part of a tube that is formed when a wave breaks. There is something special about this moment in place and time. A harmony. A balance between peace and chaos. At the centre of this vortex you feel at one with all of creation.